Hermès scarf labels: a dated timeline

Care labels from scarves of known date, oldest first. Compare yours to narrow down when your carré was made.

A label helps date a scarf but does not prove it is authentic: labels are easily removed or copied, and many vintage scarves have lost theirs.

What changed, in these examples

  • 1950s Tiny “100% SOIE” tag. 1960s scarves may have none.
  • Late 1980s Lettered labels, such as the “C-label”, circled F.
  • Mid-1990s Two-part French and English label, or one bilingual label.
  • From 1999 One bilingual “SOIE 100% SILK” label.

The timeline

  1. 1957

    Brides de Gala

    One small label sewn into the rolled hem, reading only “100% SOIE”, with the care symbols on its reverse. The catalog's only recorded reissue of this design is 2015, so this is very likely a 1957 original.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  2. c. 1988

    An astrology-themed carré

    Identified by collector jeffkub as a “C-label”, most likely from 1988, citing Geneviève Fontan's reference book on Hermès carrés (page 16). The dry-cleaning symbol is a circled F, where the 1990s labels below show a circled P.

    Photo: Lawrence_of_a_labia, Scarf Sage community

  3. 1993

    Emblèmes de l'Europe

    A two-part label folded at the hem: “FABRIQUE EN FRANCE / 100% SOIE” with the care symbols in French, and “MADE IN FRANCE / 100% SILK / DRY CLEAN ONLY” in English.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  4. 1995

    Soleil de Soie

    A single bilingual label: “MADE IN FRANCE / SOIE 100% SILK”, the care symbols, then “DRY CLEAN ONLY”.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  5. 1996

    Envol (special edition)

    The two-part label again, French on one half and English on the other.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  6. 1997

    Mors et Filets Grand National (special edition)

    Made for the 1997 Martell Grand National, printed on the scarf. Two-part French and English label.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  7. 1999

    Rêve d'Australie

    Single bilingual label, as on every later scarf in this timeline.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  8. 2000

    Feux du Ciel

    Single bilingual label.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  9. 2003

    Méditerranée

    Single bilingual label.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

  10. 2008

    Indian Dust

    Single bilingual label, here in brown with white lettering rather than black on white.

    Photo: Carolyn, Scarf Sage community

Not yet dated - can you help?

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Pierres d'Orient et d'Occident

First issued in 1998. A two-part French and English label like the 1993-1997 examples, but with a circled F for dry cleaning rather than a circled P.

Photo: OrianefromParis, Scarf Sage community

Springs

First issued in 1974. A two-part French and English label with a letter “D” printed at each end and a circled F for dry cleaning.

Photo: OrianefromParis, Scarf Sage community

Add your label

This page grows from photos shared by the community. If you can date a scarf with confidence, post a clear photo of its label in the forum thread and tell us how you know the date.

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Photos by Carolyn, Lawrence_of_a_labia and OrianefromParis; dating help from jeffkub; notes from Darlinka. Thank you.